Funsail Posted May 1, 2009 Report Share Posted May 1, 2009 Hi J22 crew, my starboard chainplate is 0.75" closer to the bow than the port one! What is the correct measurement? Do I space the starboard side, or move the port plate to the forward side of the bulkhead? Will this make a difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicMoMoney Posted May 4, 2009 Report Share Posted May 4, 2009 Since nobody else has answered yet, here goes. If you want to race one-design I doubt that putting a chainplate on the other side of the bulkhead complies with the J/22 Class Rules. In my mind moving the chainplate location is an area of diminishing return. It will take quite a bit of work and perhaps not give you much noticeable improvement. Back when I was driving my boat (I don't do that very well) I questioned a respected speed guru about my keel being a bit "chubby". His comment was that a thicker keel is more forgiving in that it re-attaches flow more easily and there were probably other things to worry about first. He was kind and left out the finishing line "like your driving ability" for my case. Anyway, I don't know about your level and please don't take this the wrong way. Until you are just not able to keep up with the good one-design boats or you notice that you are WAY faster on one tack than the other I personally wouldn't move the chainplates. If you were to measure a bunch of boats I think you'd be surprised at the differences in chainplate location. That said, the good programs do pay a bunch of attention to minute details like your chainplate location differences. Anyway, this is my opinion and worth everything you'll pay for it. Hope this does some good. vic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest_Funsail_* Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 Since nobody else has answered yet, here goes. If you want to race one-design I doubt that putting a chainplate on the other side of the bulkhead complies with the J/22 Class Rules. In my mind moving the chainplate location is an area of diminishing return. It will take quite a bit of work and perhaps not give you much noticeable improvement. Back when I was driving my boat (I don't do that very well) I questioned a respected speed guru about my keel being a bit "chubby". His comment was that a thicker keel is more forgiving in that it re-attaches flow more easily and there were probably other things to worry about first. He was kind and left out the finishing line "like your driving ability" for my case. Anyway, I don't know about your level and please don't take this the wrong way. Until you are just not able to keep up with the good one-design boats or you notice that you are WAY faster on one tack than the other I personally wouldn't move the chainplates. If you were to measure a bunch of boats I think you'd be surprised at the differences in chainplate location. That said, the good programs do pay a bunch of attention to minute details like your chainplate location differences. Anyway, this is my opinion and worth everything you'll pay for it. Hope this does some good. vic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gloryforixseal Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 After owning a driving a 94 MC 205 with 800 lbs of lead on board for 7 years, and n 88 PS190 for 5 yrs before that, the Vride is EASY to keep the bow from subbing. I dont believe Ive subbed it yet...... of course now that Ive said that, Ill make it happen soon enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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