NED1218 Posted March 24 Report Share Posted March 24 Hello , as can be seen, there is a problem with the connection of the keel. The crack is now 50 cm , do all the keel bolts need to be retightened , or just the rear ones ??? And after this , is there a suggestion how to repair the antifouling ? or should i remove everything ? THANKS ! Paul , The Netherlands NED 1218 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TyeDyedGary Posted March 25 Report Share Posted March 25 You may have a bigger problem then loose keel bolts. Get it to a shop that can make sure the keel bolts are bedded properly, and able to reseal everything when reassembled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpfox219 Posted March 25 Report Share Posted March 25 Gary... can you explain that a little further. Inquiring minds want to know. -John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TyeDyedGary Posted March 28 Report Share Posted March 28 The keel bolts are embedded in what ever metal your keel is made of. Most are dissimilar metals (stainless, lead, iron, galvanized and whatever). If water ever got to that connection point there is a high possibly that Oxidation will occur. It's fixable, but needs the lifting equipment to separate the haul and keel. It's best left to the professional's....ask questions, look their shop over, and get a written estimation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpfox219 Posted March 28 Report Share Posted March 28 Thank you... The reason I ask, is I see a lot of boats that have truly hairlines at the junction, and often wonder where does watching end and repair begin? Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghurwitch Posted March 30 Report Share Posted March 30 I worked in and around J22 and J24s and have seen both the repair and new build process. I think that crack developed from too much weight on the keel on the trailer. If I were in your situation, I would raise the boat up, loosen the keel bolts and move the keel down a little. Clean up the area between the keel and sump, and then re-bed the keel back to the sump, re-torquing all of the keel bolts, and also make sure the keel is aligned well with a level boat deck. Once the keel is tightened, they used a heavy biaxial fiberglass, if memory serves, to glass over the seam and then it was sanded and faired into the keel. So you'll need to start this process by grinding out the old glass or at least grinding down to the sump/keel joint first. After all of this, you'll want to take a little pressure off of the keel with increased pad height or more padding to lift the hull a touch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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