split vang

[riracer]

I will probably switch to a split vang. I can work out the lines, but I'm not sure where the deck hardware all goes. I have found pictures, but nothing really complete. Any photos or any advice?

 

Thanks!

[JurassicJ]

Ask your foredeck person before making the change and consult them & trimmer on the placement of gear. They use it currently and after the switch.

[Guest J22AL]

I will probably switch to a split vang. I can work out the lines, but I'm not sure where the deck hardware all goes. I have found pictures, but nothing really complete. Any photos or any advice?

 

Thanks!

[Guest J22Al]

The pictures on the APS site show the tails led back to a cleat next to the winches (http://apsltd.smugmug.com/gallery/9088330_9SUWR/1/605374752_r33bo#605376946_pdm9a).

 

I'm also considering switching to a split vang, but I'm not sure of the advantage versus using a cleat on the block attached to the bail at the base of the mast.

[JurassicJ]

A couple of cons: What will the foredeck do on the windward leg, will he get bored? lol

What will foredeck hang onto in big breeze?

If continous line, how will you mark it and have repeatable settings?

 

Chime in if you have some pros or maybe another con.

 

Brant

[vicMoMoney]

Kevin Doyle and I designed a split vang system that includes a Cunningham system which works very well for us for course racing.

 

Our premise and goals were:

 

• The bow person works the vang and Cunningham.

• The controls lead to the front corner of the sea hood.

• Keep all the weight out on the rail when either control is adjusted.

• Provide a legal vang line hiking assist for the bow person.

 

We used a cascade system on the vang similar to many others using two blocks on the mast base bale. The difference is that the control lines then lead down to the mast plate and head over to the sea hood corners. The space available on our sea hood corners was limited. We used a low and high cam cleat arrangement to save space. The low cam cleat is for the vang because it sees the most stress. I drilled through the riser on which the Cunningham cam cleat mounts to create a fairlead for the vang control line. I set a brass grommet in the cam cleat riser, but I think that was unnecessary. The line could just run through the raw plastic hole without issue.

 

To get proper angle on our old mast style, the Cunningham turning block strap on the mast base was drilled and tapped into the angled ss plate and the aluminum base casting. The screw for the mast plate cannot be too long or it interferes with the stationary deck plate. I did our setup on a friend’s boat with a newer mast base. On his mast base I was able to form a strap to fit to the holes for the base sheave shaft retainer plate. That avoided some drilling and tapping, but still gave proper lead to the sea hood corners.

 

The sea hood corner control placement means that the vang and Cunningham can each be operated with the bow person never moving their weight in. On breezy days it is very helpful.

 

Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of the system rigged. I do have pictures of the hardware mounting.

 

A starboard side view of the cam cleats. The Cunningham cam cleat has a yellow top strap.

 

I WASN'T ABLE TO POST THE PICS HERE

 

A port side view of the cam cleats. The Cunningham cam cleat has a yellow top strap.

 

I WASN'T ABLE TO POST THE PICS HERE

 

The Cunningham turning block strap mounted to the mast plate and base side.

 

I WASN'T ABLE TO POST THE PICS HERE

 

This is a list of parts needed.

 

Snydo Design J/22 Vang/Cunningham Parts

 

 

Vang

 

2 ea. – 150 aluminum cam cleat Harken #150

 

2ea. – cam cleat strap (yell.) Harken #425Y

 

1ea. – 1 ¼” (29mm) strap air block Harken #348

 

2 ea. – 1 ¼” (29mm) swivel air block Harken #340

 

1ea. – 1 ½” (38mm) swivel air block Harken #2636

 

1ea. – 2 ¼” (57mm) swivel air block Harken #2600

 

Cunningham

 

2 ea. – 150 aluminum cam cleat Harken

 

2 ea. – 7/8” cleat riser Harken #295

(drilled to use as fairlead)

 

2 ea. – 1 ¼” (29mm) swivel air block Harken #340

 

2ea. – small eye strap Ronstan #RF94

 

You will need long 10-24 ss screws for the riser mounted cleat. I recommend using Tee nuts (or barrel nuts) on the underside of the sea hood to allow clearance for the sliding hatch.

 

U.S. Watercraft/Waterline Systems, the official J/22 builder, can supply the parts needed and help with recommendations. http://www.waterlinesystems.com/

 

One possible disadvantage to the vang/Cunningham setup is the poor access if very heavy conditions require that everyone be in the back of the bus down hill. My backup plan for that possibility would be to dead end the port side vang control line and then lead the starboard side through our spin pole downhaul fairlead and cam cleat giving a pretty good lead to the cockpit. So far we have not needed to do that. Good luck. vic

 

 

I couldn't just add the pictures to this post. If anyone is interested in the complete information send a request to

 

aquaputtana

 

AT

 

Yahoo

 

.com

 

and I'll send a complete Word document. vic

[vicMoMoney]

Correction!

 

 

....

 

We used a cascade system on the vang similar to many others using two blocks on the mast base bale. The difference is that the control lines then lead down to the mast plate and head over to the sea hood corners. The space available on our sea hood corners was limited.

 

...

The vang control lines go from the mast bale blocks directly to the sea hood corner lower cam cleat. The Cunningham line goes to the added block on the side of the mast base and then over to the corner.

 

It should say:

The difference is that the vang control lines then head over to a sea hood corner.

 

Sorry for any confusion. vic