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mikegemperline

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Everything posted by mikegemperline

  1. The atlas 2 can be locked in preset class compliment modes. See their blog here: https://blog.vakaros.com/classcompliant So you can make a mode/interface that aligns with the class rules. The unit keeps a log of what data was taken when which can be audited by the class measurer and Connor be tampered. So an Atlas2 with the start line function removed is completely legal. You can also add the they hull transducer for speed through the water. No wind data is allowed.
  2. In your video where you tap around under the cabin top I don't think you are hearing a dead core. I think you're hearing the hallow space between the cabin top cover and the actual deck. You may have some water intrusion around the screws that are holding the cabin top cover down, but unless the cabin top is actually starting to pull away from the deck or you need to change the layout of the cabin top I'd say just leave it since it's not really structural to the boat. Don't go cutting away a bunch of material. A good fix/start if you want would be to remove the cabin top, drill out all the fastening holes, dig out any core although you likely won't reach any since there is a lot of glass there and hallow space, leave the section of the boat you suspect water damage under a heat lamp for a few days, fill holes with structural resin epoxy or poly will do, refasten the cabin top cover back down with new screws and either sika flex 291 or a lot of 4200. Be careful to maintain the original shape or the companion way cover could end up being difficult to slide open. To answer you're bottom job question...it aint cheap or easy to change from antifouling to a racing bottom. I had hull 16 with old ablative paint that was dried and caked on so bad we couldn't reasonably strip it. We soda blasted it with glass down through the ablative and the awl grip paints that was over the original gel coat. That was about 2k. This was done from the toe rails down to the keel and centerline for the entire length of the boat. Then the process followed: - Heat lamp any spots that may have experienced osmosis through the paint over the years. This is the closest you will ever be to the original lament and core throughout the entire hull - roll on a thick layer of epoxy barrier to the entire hull - recommend interlux interprotect paint for this - Skim the entire hull with fairing compound - recommend something cheap such as total boat's fairing product, you don't need the awl grip fairing compound. Don't worry the next layer of interprotect will stick, for that matter it would stick to your dusty floor. - Fair the skimming down to create the hull shape. Areas of importance on the hull are right in front and around where the keel meets the hull. All J boats are notorious for having a 'low' section there. Second area of importance is the center seem running from the trailing edge of the keel to the trailing edge of the hull - Repeat applying faring compound and sanding until the boat is fair enough to your liking - Spray on layers of interprotect and sand as necessary the entire hull - Now you are ready for 545 primer from a little bit above waterline and down the hull - spray and sand as needed - You could spray the whole boat with the 545 primer and leave it gray, but i went the extra step top have white topsides - Spray topside paint - recommend awl craft acrylic paint. It turns into a hard outer shell that is easy to spot fix as you ding her up. Rubbings racing after all...even though the dock will probably be the first dinger. - Spray as many layers of VC Offshore paint on as you can - this wears away over a few seasons and depending on your location and how much you race she'll have to be cleaned every week if left in the water over the summer - Burnish the VC Offshore paint with 200 wet and then 600 wet - You will see your reflection in the black vc offshore if done well Using a pro shop total estimated cost is 8-12k depending on how you get the boat stripped down and how far you go into the details of fairing the hull and materials used. It's about a 100-120 hour job with normal shop rates of 70/hr or so.
  3. I just did this to replace mast step sheaves. I had two separate pins for port and starboard sheaves...which I think they all will since the sheaves are angled outboard. We had to tap #8 fasteners into the end of the exposed pin. Use lots of lubricants and some heat(didn't care about melting sheaves since they got replaced) and a gentle pull on the #8 fastener in the pin with vice grips to get the pin to slide out. Don't lose the pin and don't lose the cover plates that keep the pin captive. The hole pattern on the mast step will be hard to copy onto a new plate.
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