ghurwitch

I worked in and around J22 and J24s and have seen both the repair and new build process. I think that crack developed from too much weight on the keel on the trailer.

If I were in your situation, I would raise the boat up, loosen the keel bolts and move the keel down a little. Clean up the area between the keel and sump, and then re-bed the keel back to the sump, re-torquing all of the keel bolts, and also make sure the keel is aligned well with a level boat deck. Once the keel is tightened, they used a heavy biaxial fiberglass, if memory serves, to glass over the seam and then it was sanded and faired into the keel. So you'll need to start this process by grinding out the old glass or at least grinding down to the sump/keel joint first. 

After all of this, you'll want to take a little pressure off of the keel with increased pad height or more padding to lift the hull a touch.

The new Sparloft boom should be shipping in a week and I expect delivery about April 15, 2024

I ordered new booms from Sparloft and since I needed a new angled base myself, I ordered three. Two available. $100 each.

geoffh437 at yahoo dot com

I have two brand new silver anodized J22 Sparloft booms on the way to the US. Price is $1,500 basis Park City, Utah. I'm keeping one so only one is for sale. 

geoffh437 at yahoo dot com 

Jean-Michel,

I did get your email. Oddly enough, I visit this forum from time to time and never saw that you commented on my post. Glad that you followed up and we connected.

Geoff

Same here. I've taken doors and windows (six J22s in our local program plus my own boat) to a local plastics shop and they recreate them perfectly including any holes needed for clasps or mounting holes for the windows. 

2002 J/22 #1483 available to charter for the 2024 Worlds in Annapolis. Boat will have all new Harken deck hardware (just began the updating) and a brand new Sparloft mast and boom. Brand new standing and running rigging too. 

I heard from Sparloft with a quote. The cost in USD basis Long Beach but not through customs is $4k for a single mast so with another mast or two or three in the order, we start saving plenty. I can bring them to Utah on an empty trailer, still in the crate, and then remove my mast and boom for the travel across the country or we can remove all rigs and tie east coast rigs to other trailers making the move. 

1 hour ago, jlevac said:

could be interested.  Alfie was looking at doing this as well in Lake George.

We might be able to pool efforts if there is not enough buyers in one area. The crate holds 3-4 masts so I've been focused on four to split the costs better. Sparloft is running the numbers for me now based on landing at Long Beach. For me, that includes the mast base casting but that can be left off of other masts if you want to reuse an older one they said.

I've been trying to get the attention of Sparcraft to order a new mast and I've heard back at times and then they forget about me. I imagine that they have bigger fish to fry. However, Sparloft was super responsive. I have done a number of  imported rig orders before and I'm tempted to spearhead another so that I can get a mast and boom for my J22 #1483 over the Fall/Winter so that I have it for next Spring and the J22 Worlds.

Anybody else need a mast and/or a boom for their J22? 

I'll likely plan to receive the order in LA and figure out logistics from there. I got a great quote for $700 to move a mast from NC to UT so maybe we can find the same in reverse or use the buddy system for any east coast buyers.

Was it class racing though? That would have an impact.

I gave away my Barient 10s and plastic winch pads to another boat in our program and I'm putting new Harken 6s on my boat. I had wanted to buy a pair of the Waterline angled risers/winch pads but they're not selling at the moment so I decided to build my own mold. If anybody else wants a pair, I'd consider making more, same price as Waterline, $150/pair. I'll post a picture soon as it's only a plug at the moment. They would be white gelcoat.

13 hours ago, Guest LT SPINNEY said:

Palm Brach Sailing Club is restoring four J22s. Two for teaching. Any stanchions or pulpits out there? Hard to find…

I have a pulpit for sale but I just quoted somebody on shipping and it was prohibitive so it's still for sale. If we can figure out the buddy express to get it to you, then it may be worthwhile.

We have your boat's sibling out here, #30. It was the first J22 in our program.

I'd say you made a pretty good guess on what it looks like, without having it in front of me to measure yet.

On 4/15/2023 at 2:25 PM, Cole said:

Would anyone in this thread be willing to post dimensions of their lifting bar? I'm having one made.

I would want to know the:

l/w and thickness of bar

l/w of thickness of vertical bit

Hole/slot diameter

Hole/slot spacing

D-ring / shackle size.

I could...I have a new one that's not installed yet. Give me an email address to send the dimensions to.

I'd call Mike Orro at Triad. He's pretty quick to respond and removes any gray area in the answers.

Likely it's 3/8 balsa core which is readily available and a common size. It's a pretty easy project and you are definitely on the right track. Just remove the old core well and sand thoroughly and it seems like you have the rest figured out.

On 11/18/2021 at 12:03 PM, bkitchens said:

Thanks for the link and comments.  The core replacement video is definitely helpful in gauging the effort…with the understanding that I’m looking a a much bigger area.

Question regarding the Administrator comment about the cabin top.  You indicate that you replaced the “tracks” which were brittle.  Are the tracks independent pieces or are they molded FG supported by wood or other structure?  

I’ll attach a video of the interior…if I can get it uploaded.

Here's the plastic track, it's a pretty easy job to replace. I'd call Waterline first to make sure it's in stock. https://waterlinestore.com/new-products/hatch-slide-extrusion-pvc 

The cabin top that covers the slider and where some of the cleats for halyards are often attached can be easily removed. If it's in the deck, it's a bigger undertaking but well worth it.

On 11/17/2021 at 4:43 PM, bkitchens said:

Did you attempt the repair?  I would believe you need to remove the stanchion and start with a repair inside the cabin.  What’s it look like underneath? Good chance there is moisture/rot that will need to be removed.  Once that is cleared you can rebuild from below and dress up from above.

The mast base itself is solid glass. I happen to have a piece of deck and I drilled through that area with a hole saw to see what the laminate was. Just forward it should be balsa core so that crack could be forming at the edge of the balsa.

On 11/17/2021 at 7:08 PM, Guest QueenMary said:

I recently bought an 85 J22.  I'm in love, but the boat definitely needs some attentjon. The one actual upgrade I'd like to do (beyond replacing all running rigging) is to replace the flat mast step with an angled one. Searching the forums, my understanding is that I need to buy the correct casting side, and that the base is the same for both styles.

Maybe I'm just bad at googling, but I cannot figure out where to buy one. The only step I can find appears to be the flat style from Sound Boatworks. Anyone have a good link? Many thanks! So glad to be a member of club 22!

I had the same question, ironically for an '85 that I just acquired, and I asked Sound Boatworks and it seems like they have the angled bases depending upon which mast you have though I can't figure out how that would matter. 

Is it really a J22?  The reason that I ask is that there really isn't "floorboards".  There's a single little board that's easy to move.  Could it be something different like a Catalina 22?  

We have roller furlers on a few of our J22s.  No sails are sewn on and I've never heard of that.  Sounds like a jury rig.  You could cut it off and try again.  Get a new forestay with that new three piece Harken system on it or find a used system on ebay.