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cdoyle

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  1. cdoyle

    Main outhaul system diagram

    There is a 1/4" bolt that runs athwartships at the forward end of the boom about 9" from the gooseneck.. The forward end of the block and tackle attaches there. How you orient the 4:1 purchase depends on whether the line exits the underside boom pointed forward or aft. The boat comes with the line exiting aft, but most folks like it better exiting forward.
  2. cdoyle

    Keel position

    You can make the two jigs that establish MPA and MPB out of hard board. Or a measurer may have a set. Where are you located?
  3. cdoyle

    Line diameter

    They have not changed since the reduction from 8mm to 6mm.
  4. cdoyle

    need new spreader for Hall Mast

    I have a set of used Hall Spar spreaders in my basement off of Hull #1026. Happy to give them to you. My email is j221026@roadrunner.com.
  5. 1026 was delivered with a flat step, s it was after that.
  6. cdoyle

    Mast Step Help

    Sorry Ted, I struck out. You may want to try calling APS and asking them. Or Waterline Systems. Other than those two vendors I am out of suggestions (neither Vic nor my local guy had one in stock).
  7. cdoyle

    Mast Step Help

    I may have one or be able to find you one. Ya' never know, Vic may have one in the back of his Sprinter. There was this one year when he went through a mast every other regatta! Give me a day or two to poke around.
  8. Do your six support pads adjust using a threaded rod with a nut? If so, you can adjust the supports with the weight of the boat on them. You'll need to lubricate the threads first. Alternatively, if the boat is level on the hoist, perhaps you can pull the trailer under the boat, level the trailer with a jack (level confirmed with a carpenter's level), block the trailer with lumber so the trailer will not move if the jack slips, lower the boat so the keel is 1/4" above the keel tray and then adjust the six pads up to the hull of the boat, drop the boat all the way down onto the trailer, detach the crane, lower the jack and pull out from under the crane. That should get you pretty close to where you want to be. I think you'd want 13% of the weight of the boat on each pad (for a total of 78%) and the remaining 22% on the keel. Put those are just ballpark, and there's really no way to measure the weights anyway.
  9. My opinion: 1. Spend more time driving your boat. 2. New sails. 3. Have one of the class sailmakers spend a regatta with you teaching you the finer points of mast tune and sail trim. 4. Keel job. 5. Bottom job. Then again, what do I know?
  10. cdoyle

    Suggestions to point higher

    1. New sails, or at least a new jib. 2. New keel job...makes a huge difference particularly in tight lanes. 3. Try making the headstay longer in 1/4" increments. If the headstay is to short, the skipper tends to pull on the mainsheet too much tottery to get the bow up. 4. Lately, I have used a little backstay in the 8 - 10 knot range unless the water is super-flat. That keeps the headstay from moving around. Also, speed helps point. So make sure the boat bottom is smooth, too.
  11. cdoyle

    Mast rake

    For your vintage of boat, that set up should be good for most conditions. I had hull 1026 for a while, and my boat was set up around there when I was using North Sails. When I was using Quantums, I actually had more rake. And the newer boats seem to sail better with a little more rake than what the older boats carry.
  12. One of the questions posed to me at the Worlds (or posed about me to others at the Worlds) was: So how long before Chris moves on to another class? Since I had this directed to or about me from at least three different sources, I figured I would post something in case others cared. I have no plans to go to another class anytime soon. I like my boat, the people I sail with, most of the people I sail against, and I think the Class is pretty well run. I like that young people can get into the class by buying a good used boat with decent sails for $15,000. I think that guys like Brad Julien and RJ Moon are just what the class needs to make it go strong for another twenty years. I like that I can sail competitively against pros, women, teenagers and old guys (no names) and that each of us is not preordained to win or lose or finish mid-fleet. I think it is great that people of all sizes and shapes and strengths can sail a J/22. I think it is neat that, generally, the people I race against want everyone on the course to get better at sailing, for everyone to make their boat go faster and for everyone to imporve their boat handling. I like that I can come into the weather mark on port tack without my competitors yelling at me (unless I deserve it). I like that I can put my boat within a foot of another boat without the other team panicking and doing something that will slow both of us down. I like that I can rely on most of the folks I race against to do the smart thing on the course. I really like that we can talk to each other while we're racing. Not only "tack or cross" but "do you mind if we play through" or "let's head down and extend here" on the runs. I like that we hang out at the tent after the race, drink, exchange tips and stories. I really hate lifelines, and am glad that J/22s don't have them. My dad bought his last boat in 1977. He owned and raced it until 2012 which when he physically couldn't sail any more. I'm not saying that I will be sailing the Jug 4 1 for the next thirty years. But you sholdn't be surprised if I'm still doing it in ten years. I have been around, and I have not found a boat or a class that suits me better.
  13. We determined a few years ago that we should pull the traveller to weather after we flatten. Otherwise the mainsail is not working in harmony with the kinetics program. I won't explain my faux-science, but the steps are: 1. Make sure the traveller is cleated on the leeward side (we use a cleat on the seat for that: look at the pictures of other boats elsewhere on this site). 2. Stand up. 3. Start to tack. 4. Release the traveller from the weather (soon to be old weather) cleat. 5. You stand to weather (soon to be old weather/new leeward) as the boat rolls. You can hold onto the leech of the mainsail for support. 6. Once the jib fills on the new leeward (old weather) side, cross to the new weather side. 7. Sit down as you and the crew roll the boat to vertical. 8. Once the boat is vertical, yank the traveller to weather to its new position.
  14. You can not taper below the minimum diameter. Unless the rules say otherwise, you can take a cored line that is above the minimum diameter and taper it down to (but not below) the minimum. Generally, the class line diameter minimums are fairly large, so tapering isn't advisable. A couple of areas where I think it may be worthwhile are the tweakers and the vang line which have smaller minimum diameters. Of course, if you use a cascade instead of a block and tackle on the vang, you can use minimum diameter uncored spectra for the 2:1 and 4:1 parts and a length of above-minimum cored line for the 8:1 line that is handled.
  15. Those looking to charter a boat for the Worlds and those who have a boat to charter for the Worlds ought to post here and on the regatta website at: http://www.j22worlds.com/index.php/the-event1/charters/
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